9th November - Inca Trail Day 2

"I fantasize about massive pristine convenience. Brilliant gold taps, virginal white marble, a seat carved from ebony, a cistern full of Chanel No. 5, and a flunky handing me pieces of raw silk toilet roll. But under the circumstances I'll settle for anywhere."
Mark Renton, Trainspotting.

The cramps in my stomach told me it was time. I had no idea of the hour but it was still dark. Headed for the stench in the distance with paper in one hand and Maglite® in the other. Trap #3 had now moved up in the pecking order of cleanliness with only a moderate covering of wet faeces over the floor. The cubicle had no lock. I carefully positioned the torch to illuminate the hole in the floor. Never having been to such a campsite toilet I had asked around for the best strategy to achieve the task. Most people said you squat with your right hand on the back wall to give stability. If you'd seen the state of the back wall you too would have passed on this. I opted for the trousers round ankles, arms in front to balance. Was paranoid the torch would slip and go down the hole so kept glancing up to make sure it was secure. Still had stage fright and couldn't until it dawned on me that my current approach was exactly the same procedure Jonny Wilkinson adopts when he attempts to kick a penalty. That was the "light relief" I needed and the rest is history.

In other news the cold is in full flow. Still when I finish the trail I will take extra satisfaction that I did it under par. Today we have to navigate Warmiwanusca or to give it its more famous name "Dead Woman's pass" - attributed to an American who died while showing off and running at 4000m and then going into cardiac failure.

We started at 3500m and ended up at 4200 at the top. The going was pretty tough - it was more the blazing sun rather than the altitude. Great scenery though. We all made it in various times, I must have blown my nose a hundred times. Bryce had a beer to celebrate. The Aussies had 75% rum. I stuck to Gatorade and chocolate. The trip down the other side of the pass was interesting - sheer steps all the way to our next campsite. Very tough on the knees.

We had lunch when we arrived at 4pm at Papamaya. Bacon and traditional Peruvian fare. I have also lost my voice and have the sweats. Got a bit concerned that with the temperatures predicted to drop to zero tonight it might be s struggle to get sleep. I am also out of painkillers. 3 of the group are ill with stomach problems and skipped dinner. Went to bed after dinner with 4 layers on top, long johns, a liner for the sleeping back and fleece and anorak next to me. Fingers crossed.