19th November

A day off today. We are due to catch the night bus to Nazca at 9pm this evening but before then I have a chore list as long as your arm to complete. The first and most important being the acquisition of new shoes. Bata is the name of the shoe shop, not sure if it is just in Peru or in other parts of the world. I spent 15 quid on a mock pair of hiking boots which will hopefully hold together until I reach New York. Arequipa is a very friendly city with great architecture made from the local volcanic rock (sillar). Took lots of photos of churches and the impressive plaza de armas and bought many souvenirs.

Tried to find the sister restaurant of last night "Zig-Zag creperie" but failed. I also passed on meeting the others who were going to the monastery at 12pm instead favouring the pool and the hotel bar. Also on the list was have haircut but I was saved from a fate worse than death when a powercut prevented me from entering one peluqueria with photos of models sporting "Limahl haircuts".

Finally had food (veg lasagne and salad) around 5pm and met a girl from the Dragoman tour called Jenny. She was nice if a little exciteable but her lesbian tour guide looked and sounded like a complete battle-axe. We sat around reception for several hours until my washing came back from the lavanderia (8pm) when the bus came to take us to the coach terminal.

There are many liars in this world - Bil Clinton, Richard Nixon and the bloke who coined the phrase "luxury coach". Despite the fact that our bus was black with go faster stripes and flames on the side the inside looked depressingly like the trains that used to take me to Chelmsford 3 times a week. We piled on up to the top deck. Ted and Jean had 2 seats, Peter and Jane had another 2. I was sitting by myself for 15 mins. "Will I have a double to myself like the trip to Puno?". In a word, no, because Miguel "the Fridge" Sanchez, for want of a better name, came and plonked himself heavily next to me. This guy weighed about 18 stone and had more dampness under his arms than the contents of Lake Titicaca.

Our "in-drive" meal consisted of chicken and rice that ironically was served in an aluminium tray similar to a chinese takeaway, a pastry which I left untouched and a desert everyone left untouched. The meal was washed down with complimentary Inca Kola. which is the colour of radioactive wee and has the taste of bubblegum and ice cream soda. "Miguel" ate so quickly it was almost as though his mouth was so close to the tray he could have hoovered up the grains of rice. The film was "Deja Vu" again with Denzel Washington and was stopped 3/4 of the way through. I guess that meant bed-time.

Miguel who despite his size had kept his limbs over his side during the meal decided now was the time to stretch out. He was snoring within 5 minutes and his lardy arms spilled over to my half of the seat as his chest rose and fell. At one point he put his head on my shoulder and got a quick but accurate kick in the shins. This had a strange effect. He shot up in his seat, I thought he was going to belt me, but he took off his sweatshirt, removed his wrist watch, scrathed his crotch and faced the other way. It wasn't long before he gravitated towards me again. I though as we had another 8 hours to go I should either say something or put up and shut up. As a compromise I wedged my North Face coat between our heads and shoulders and then managed an awkward sleep until dawn.

From the station we got a minibus to the hotel. No idea what kind of place it was as I was asleep on my feet. All I can tell you is that the Nazca airport is opposite our hotel. Have gone to bed immediately. We meet again in 2 hours. Night-night.