14th November

I thought I had experienced most of the transport in South America but getting push bikes with 2 seats bolted to the front was certainly a laugh. We went in 4 of these things to the port to catch our boat which will take us on a tour of Lake Titicaca. Had to make a pit-stop first to pick up presents for our host families as we will be staying on the Amantani island tonight. We had a budget of 10 soles but most of us went over that. I bought 2 toothbrushes, toothpaste, soap, pasta and sardines (ok, the choice was limited).

We met our guide near the boat. His name was Edwin, he had a squeaky voice and smelled of sweat. The boat was like a coach inside and seated about 30.

The first stop was to the floating islands of the Uros Indians. They speak Spanish and their native language of Aymara. The islands take about a year to make out of reeds and as the name suggests they float. Walking on the reeds was like walking on a pavement after 6 pints - difficult. The island we visited was about as big as an olympic swimming pool but circular. It had about 3 houses, a trout pool, a communal oven and a post office! We had a talk on how the islands are made, what the locals eat and drink and how families are made when there is no local disco or datingdirect.com. We took a boat ride to visit the other communities in the region, bought a few odds and sods and then we set off for the Amantani island.

The journey took about 3 and a half hours with the sea fairly calm. I slept for most of it. We were greeted at the port by our "mothers" who were far more interested in their knitting rather than their new house-guests. I will be staying with a lady called Juana who is small, dark and judging by her toothless grin my 10 soles would have been better spent on chocolate not dental products.

Lake Titicaca is high up. Really high up at around 3800m. We must have trekked another 100m vertically to get to the house. The house was typical - very low celings, a small smoky kitchen, an outside toilet complete with bucket to "flush" and a plethora of animals inside and outside including a donkey, lots of sheep,a cat and a litter of guinea pigs living in a compartment under the stove. My room had three beds and about 300 files but the beds were comfy and clean. We had lunch which was Quinoa soup (vegetable) and some very squeaky cheese and root vegetables. Also tried the local mint tea which was really refreshing.

The itinerary of events is quite hectic on this part of the tour and within 20 mins of the plates being cleared away we were marched off to the football field. Coaching football at altitude was hard, playing 6 a side was like torture. After a slow start my team found some form and we won 4-2. WIlliams getting a hat-trick including a volley from 15 yds. I would have got 4 but a Kiwi girlput her thigh in the way of my pile-driver. I was also glad my walking boots (destroyed after the Inca Trail) managed this latest onslaught. I can't wait to get to Arequipa to buy new ones. The Canadian couple didn't take part but it meant Ted was chief photographer. I think he has oneof my strikes on goalcaught on film.

After the game we walked to the top of Pachamama ("Mother Earth") mountain the second highest peak on the island. The views were great as was the sunset. Willie and I had a beer at the top (5 soles) and we bumped into the Aussies Tony and Rocky from the Inca Trail and made arrangements to go on the rip tomorrow night in Puno.

When we got back to the house we ate pretty much straight away.We ate more soup and then rice,veg, roast spuds and chicken.We also met the father (Eduardo) and the 2 sons (William and Fernando). No rest after dinner either as we were taken by torch light to the local town hall. We had to dress in ponchos and woolly hats and then danced with our "mothers" who again looked much happier with their knitting than having to dance with a bunch of Gringos. The Canadians didn't take part again. I really don't know why they are on this tour. It was an early night and was in bed by 10 and fell asleep to the soundof the donkey braying and the waves hitting the shore line.