1st November - Galápagos Day 3

I spent the first 30 mins of the day applying after sun. It is easy to forget you are still on the equator and the sun is fierce. Breakfast was even better than yesterday with real pancakes. Over night we sailed to the west to a small island called Bartolomé. A huge rock stands way from the cliffs (apparently it was formed by the yanks testing explosive in WW2). The rocks are covered in bird droppings so it looks white from the dinghies. We also saw the tiny Galápagos penguin who put a show on for us. Other sites included a Galápagos heron sitting on its nest and the obligatory red crab we have seen everywhere.

Bartolomé is very volcanic and comprised entirely of ash making the landscape very barren and difficult to sustain flora and fauna. We only saw lava lizards. We did trek up a hill to view the extent of the volcanic eruptions over the years. Great photos. We also had the obligatory group photo with Priscila.

Back to the boat for a change of clothes in readiness for second snorkeling expedition. Firstly, we had a short walk over to a different beach to spot white-tipped shark from the shore. You couldn't see a lot (one shark) but we did see some more comical sea-lions (I have a video of one dreaming he is catching fish or similar). Eliot complained he thought there would be more shark. It was so tempting to get him to see this one up close and personal. Also a new-comer was the Galápagos hawk.*

The snorkeling was a bit better than yesterday (and colder!). Saw red and white fish and a sea-lion underwater. We all stayed only 15 mins as it was that cold and then went back aboard for tea and biscuits.

After lunch, we left Bartolomé en route for North Seymour which was about 3 hours away. I fell asleep in the sun again, my legs were soon the colour of a slapped arse, but still not as bad as Krys who has now started to blister.

We took the dinghy to the jetty of North Seymour. Dear God the sea was rough. We thought we would capsize a good number of times as the waves lashed over the sides of the boat. But it was well worth it. North Seymour was by far the spectacle of the cruise. The terrain is completely different to Bartolomé. The earth is dark red again and supported lots of plant life. As a result there were nearly every type of animal native to these islands. Our path was blocked by an enormous elephant seal who wasn't going to budge so we did the trail the other way around. The first thing we saw were nesting frigates. The red sack the males puff out on their chest is quite amazing. It is easily as big as a rugby ball. And it was quite easy to see the males spot the females (white chests) flying above. We took hundreds of photos as a group. We also saw some babies who look hilarious. They are big, have brown beaks and are covered in a downy fur which makes them look like teddy bears.

We also saw the blue-footed booby up close, it looks like it is wearing turquoise wellies and has very distinctive eyes and a blue beak. Al the animals seemed to pose for the camera. The most special event we were treated to was the booby courtship ritual in full...

• 3 or so males encircle on female on the ground and then each in turn shows his best moves.
• The first males strutted up and extended its wings to full span, then collected a twig and gave it to the female
• Then did a funny dance by alternately swaying on either foot.

The female eventually went off with the one with the biggest car. No seriously, the female chose the first suitor who had actually backed off to a safe distance and looked shy, much to the delight of the female members of the party. The second suitor was far more raucous and he got nowhere. The seal was still there when we got back - he was bigger than Krys! Got back to the boat unscathed and packed up the bags. We have a ridiculously early start for the final island tomorrow at 6 AM when we visit Black Turtle Cove on Santa Cruz.

I had a list of all the animals I was hoping to see in these islands and I have seen them all. This is truly a great place. If you have a spare couple of grand I can definitely recommend it as a holiday destination.

Back on board we have two envelopes to fill with tips - one for Priscila and one for the crew. We all had a few beers and watched the sun set on the horizon next to a small volcano. It was beautiful and dare I say it romantic. Arch and Marie will have a great honeymoon here.

We had a farewell celebration before dinner and a toast from the captain. The chef had also baked a cake. I did the reply to the toast as the Capt. doesn't speak english. It was a bit forced with lots of "Gracias" and nouns I dragged up from somewhere. Dinner was paella, veg and salad and cake to follow. I had two pieces, Krys three.

We are already anchored opposite the cove so tonight should be a restful one.

* Please note for all those interested a lot of the animals are "Galapágos ----" as most of the wildlife is endemic to these islands. That is what makes it all so unique!