15th December

Despite the usual automatic waking through the night to check I haven't slept in I actually didn't feel to bad getting up at 3.45am. Most of today will be spent travelling. The day will start and end with a cab and the final destination should be the most densely populated capital city in the world - Mexico's.

Slight panic at the airport! I couldn't see my flight on the departure board, checked and re-checked the paperwork, suffered the embarrassment of asking a security guard if there was another terminal or indeed another international airport in Santiago. Doh! It appears as though the departure boards only show the flights directly opposite the check-in desks they relate to so I could only see the LAN Chile ones - what use is that? Found the right desk - the family from hell were in front of a depressingly long queue, the father was useless, the mother was chastising her elder daughter while the younger one was being sick down her father, and onto the counter and the floor.

Forgot to change CH$ back to dollars so I now have about 50 quid in useless currency despite buying an overly expensive breakfast, Milka and Toblerone - a future trip perhaps will get shot of the rest. The first flight to Lima passed without incident (4 hours). Stop 1. The flight to San Jose, Costa Rica was great - I had 3 seats to myself and another meal (that makes 3 for today). Another 4 hours, stop 2.

San Jose airport is 'orrible. It is 90% gringos, all prices are in US$, most workers are US college students and English is the first language spoken. The food court consisted of Burger King, Dunkin Donuts and Papa Johns. I had FIVE hours to wait until my third and final flight so killed about 30 mins with meal number 4 of the day and settled down with Lynda.

Meal number 5 was on-board the flight to Mexico City. Ironically, there were no identifiable gringos on board - probably unable to unchain themselves from the Golden Arches. Everywhere I have read Mexico City is the home of culture chock. It has everything - altitude, smog, crime and an awful lot of Mexicans. Started well - was first through immigration partly due to inventive queue-jumping on my part but was nearly last to leave baggage claim. Customers were uninterested and getting a cab was only painful as I had to walk the entire length of the terminal building but to get the security of a "remise" I suppose was worth it. Journey took about 20 mins, the hotel (a last minute change by Gap) is about 3 blocks from the red-light district which was slightly disconcerting especially as the cab driver was waving at one of the girls. Checked in about 10.30 which is 01.30 Chile time so crashed out pretty much straight away. My room-mate's stuff was neatly packed away which is a good sign - he must be out on the welcome dinner I have managed to avoid on all my tours so far.